The Finishing Line: Four Brands That Set The Bar For Top-Notch Finishing
When talking high watchmaking, complications and innovative design are just one piece of the riddle. As complex as development designing can be, if the finishing techniques applied to the completed caliber aren’t acceptable, the watch in question simply will not garner the same degree of attention inside the gathering community. Equate it to building a Ferrari and painting it in a dusty barn—the unseen details are the main problem, and those details will make or break a brand on any given day. To be fair there are a decent number of extravagance brands out there whose finishing skills are impressive, anyway when the subject comes up in conversation it’s these brands underneath that become a reference as the benchmark that is generally left unbeaten.
Whether you’re talking about their upper register or the simplest of Royal Oak and Offshore models , AP’s calibers are consistently professional. Cote de Geneve striping, inclining, snailing, and different finishes are prevalent in each corner. They also very skilled with regards to building openworked calibers—a sector that continues to expand in the Royal Oak model range. At one outrageous, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked follows more traditional design codes of development design and finishing, whereas the Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked is a more current and artistic interpretation that uses a blend of high polishing, anglage, brushing and perlage in an unconventional package.
In the case from Romain Gauthier, high precision manufacturing techniques meet artisanal hand finishing techniques in beautiful and exceptionally restricted creation timepieces. Their broad and conspicuous mirror-finished anglage is contrasted by more industrial looking microblasted finishes, among other fine details. At the point when paired with traditionally designed subdials, leaving parts of the caliber exposed, Romain’s watches cannot be mistaken for anything else and offer an elegant on-wrist showcase of the brand’s capabilities. In spite of the fact that many be unaware, the small firm also builds components for some of the serious weapons of high watchmaking (who shall remain nameless), so you may be more familiar with their work than you might suspect.
Lange & Sohne
Outside the mechanical complexity of Lange & Sohne, the traditional finishings of Glashutte are a real sight to observe. Using German silver for mainplates and ¾ plates, the conspicuous ribbing (similar to Cote de Geneve striping) has a distinct sheen to it. The brand also uses gold chatons around its jewels, fastened in place by blued screws, adding a significantly further layer of complex traditional finishing. As a final finishing contact, a profoundly engraved balance rooster completes the package. Despite the fact that the brand has a more present day side that includes pieces like the Zeitwerk and the Lange 1 Moon Lumen, yet even those stick to the traditional finishing codes that the brand has maintained since its resurrection during the 1990s.
Back on the independent finish of the spectrum, brothers Tim and Bart Gronefeld are an exceptional team whose manufacture is not in Switzerland or Germany, but rather instead concealed in Oldenzaal, Netherlands (a little two or three hours outside of Amsterdam). Prior to starting their self-named brand, the team both injury up working at the famed Renaud et Papi , designing and manufacturing impeccable high-complications. During this stint, Tim assumed some extremely undeniable level positions including head of watchmaker training, and taking charge of assembly of tourbillons and regulating escapements. With their own creations, the lessons learned with one of the industry’s most profoundly regarded caliber manufacturers clearly paid off. Among others, their 1941 Remontoire watch isn’t anything shy of spectacular, and similarly to Romain Gauthier blends both traditional and more present day finishing techniques in a caliber that simply doesn’t appear as though anything else.